DIY Sofa Table

How to Make Your Own Sofa Table

1. 1 Cut the Plywood + Face Frame Pieces

   

   Use your BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* 5-1/2 in. Circular Saw to cut the plywood across the grain at 82 1/2”. Cut the 82 1/2” piece lengthwise to produce four pieces measuring 9 x 82 1/2”. Trim two pieces of the 9 x 82 1/2 to be 9 x 81”. Cut one of the 82 1/2” pieces across the grain twice to yield two pieces 29 1/4” long. Upon the completion of the cuts, your pieces should measure as follows:

   • (1) piece of 9 x 82 1/2” for the top
   • (2) pieces of 9 x 81” for the two shelves
   • (2) pieces of 9 x 29 1/4” for the legs

   Also cut (6) face frame pieces, 29 1/4" long from the 3 x 96" hardwood stock.

2. 2 Build the Box

   

   
   

   Measure up from the bottom of each leg and make a mark at both 3” and 16 1/8”. Use a carpenter's square to extend the lines across the legs. Stand up the 82 1/2” top piece on one of its long edges. Apply glue to the top edge of each leg, stand them on their 3/4” edge, flush against the bottom end of the top to form 90° corners (the top overlaps and flushes with the end of the legs).

   Nail through the top piece and into the leg with three 1 1/2” finish nails. Apply glue to both ends of one 81” shelf and position it between the legs on the mark you made at 16 1/8”. Nail through the legs and into the shelves with three 1 1/2” nails at each end. Install the lower shelf in the same fashion, on the lower layout lines.

3. 3 Complete the Face Frame

   

   Apply wood glue to one of the legs and cover it with one of the face frame pieces so the pieces are flush at the top and outside edges. Fasten the frame piece with nine or ten 1 1/2” finish nails driven into the top, shelves and legs. Apply glue to the second leg and install a second face frame piece over the opposing leg. Center a third face frame piece between the two outer frame pieces and install it with glue and two finish nails driven into the top and shelves.

   Along the tabletop, measure the distance between the outer and middle face frame pieces. Cut one piece of 3” wide hardwood stock for each of these dimensions. Apply glue and position the pieces between the face frames so they are flush with the top of the tabletop. Nail each piece to the top with six finish nails. Flip the table over and install the same face frame pieces on the other side.

4. 4 Cut + Apply Trim

   

   Measure the width of the tabletop and face frame pieces at both ends of the table. Cut a piece of hardwood trim, 1 1/2” wide for each end. Measure and cut two more pieces of 1 1/2” stock to run along the front and back sides of the tabletop and cover the ends of the short trim pieces. Measure the distance between the face frames and cut a piece of 1 1/2” stock to cover the edge of each shelf on both sides of the table.

   Install the hardwood trim pieces with glue and finish nails so they are flush with the tabletop and outsides of the face frames. Install the remaining trim pieces with glue and finish nails, flushing it along the top and shelves.

5. 5 Add the Corner Braces

   

   Use the BLACK+DECKER 20V MAX* Lithium Drill/Driver with Autosense™ Technology to drill six pilot holes through each of the six 3/4 x 3/4 x 6” pieces of scrap wood. Drill three pilot holes on one side and three more pilot holes on an adjacent side, 90° to the first holes, offsetting the groups of holes so they don't intersect. (These are glue block supports to strengthen the table.)

   TIPS:

   • Depending on what type of screw you're using, pilot holes should be just slightly smaller than the screw. The idea is to allow the hole to be big enough for the screw to pass through without splitting the wood, but at the same time, small enough so that the threads grip firmly.
   • Glue block supports are pieces of wood that add strength by joining two pieces at 90° in a corner, while remaining hidden underneath. They are key to good construction.

6. 6 Detail It

   

   Use a nail set and hammer to drive all the nail heads slightly below the surface of the wood. Use a putty knife to fill all the holes, seams and joints with wood dough, and let it dry for at least 15 minutes. Sand everything smooth with the BLACK+DECKER MOUSE® Detail Sander and 120-grit sandpaper, rounding over all corners and edges.
   

   
   

7. 7 Apply Stain + Lacquer

   

   Use a clean cloth to apply a stain of your choice, and allow it to dry as directed. Spray the table inside and out with aerosol lacquer. Allow the lacquer to dry according to the manufacturer’s recommended dry time. Sand the table lightly by hand with 180-grit sandpaper, and then finish with one more coat of lacquer.

   OPTIONAL: You can choose to paint the table instead of using stain and lacquer. Stain and lacquer can make your table appear more professional than paint, but it’s a matter of personal preference.