Patio Prep Cart

How to Build a Patio Prep Cart

1. 1 Build the Frame

   

   This outdoor kitchen cart is essentially a skeleton of 2 × 4 cedar wrapped in cedar siding and capped off with large tiles. Start by building the skeleton: that is, the frame. Cut the bottom supports, posts, and top rails to length. Cut the bottom panel and center panel to length and width.

   Attach two of the posts to the center panel with 1 1⁄4" screws. Place the center panel and bottom panel on their sides and attach the bottom panel to the posts with 2 1⁄2" screws.

2. 2 Install Corner Posts and Top Rails

   

   With the panels on their edges, attach two of the corner posts to the bottom panel. Flip the assembly right-side up and attach one of the top rails to the top of the corner posts and center panel post. Attach the other two corner posts and top rail. Attach the bottom supports to the bottom panel with 1 1⁄4" screws.

3. 3 Install Cornerboards

   

   Cut the corner stiles to length and width. Attach the corner stiles to the corner posts with four 1 1⁄4" screws. Drill a countersunk, 1⁄8"-dia. pilot hole and countersunk hole for each screw. Cut the front-bottom rail to length and width and attach it to the front-bottom support with four 1 1⁄4" screws and decorative finish washers. Cut the side siding and back siding pieces to length. Drill two 1⁄8" pilot holes in each end of each siding board. Space the holes 1" in from the ends and 3⁄4" in from the edges.

4. 4 Add Siding

   

   Attach the siding boards to the corner posts with 1 1⁄4" screws, spacing the boards 1⁄4" apart. Drill a 1 1⁄4"-dia. hole near the bottom of the back of the refrigerator section for the power cord to fit through.
   
   

5. 5 Install the Shelves Optional

   

   Measure and mark the shelf heights on the inside faces of the left side siding and center divider. Here, the shelves are spaced so the lowest shelf opening is 15" high. The middle opening is 10" high and the top opening is 8" high. The shelf supports are sized so the shelves will not interfere with the front corner posts. Attach the shelf supports with 1 1⁄4" screws driven through countersunk pilot holes in the supports and into the cabinet walls. Cut the shelves from 3⁄4"-thick plywood (preferably cedar plywood). Cut 1 1⁄2" × 3 1⁄2" notches in the left corners of each shelf board to fit around the posts. Drive a few brads down through the shelves and into the supports to secure them.
   

   
   

6. 6 Build the Door

   

   Cut the door stiles to length. Cut the door siding to length and the top door siding board to length and width. Drill two 1⁄8" pilot holes in each end of each full-width door siding board. Space the holes 1" in from the ends and 3⁄4" in from the edges. Drill one 1⁄8" pilot hole in each end of the top door siding board. Attach the siding boards to the door stiles with 1 1⁄4" screws.

7. 7 Attach the Casters

   

   Tip the cabinet upside down and place one caster in each corner (here, 2 1⁄2" casters are being installed). Mark the caster screw holes and drill 3⁄16" pilot holes for each screw. Fasten the casters with 1⁄4" × 1 1⁄2" hot-dipped lag screws.

8. 8 Hang the Door and Install Hardware

   

   To hang the door, attach zinc-plated or brass hinges (a pair of 3" butt hinges will do) to the door and the left corner post and corner stile. Also add a handle (an aluminum door pull installed vertically is used here) as well as a latch and strikeplate to hold the door closed.

9. 9 Install the Tile Work Surface

   

   The top for this cart features a 3⁄4"-thick plywood subbase that supports a cementboard backer for the tiles (here, eight 12 × 12" porcelain tiles). Cut the plywood subbase to size from exterior plywood and attach it to the top rails with 11⁄4" deck screws. Cut a piece of tile backer board (here, 1⁄2" thick cementboard) to 24 × 48". Attach the backer board to the subbase with construction adhesive and 1" screws (make sure the screwheads are recessed below the cementboard surface).

   Attach the tiles to the backer board with construction adhesive.

10. 10 Attach Countertop Edging

    

    Cut the top sides, front and back edging pieces to length from cedar 1 × 2. Drill countersunk, 1⁄8"-dia. pilot holes in the edging pieces and attach them to the subbase edges with construction adhesive and brads. Fill gaps around tile with caulk. Apply a clear, UV-protectant finish to the wood surface and seal the tiles.